Conquering the Alps — The 2026 European Spine Ride
After 10 years of cycling challenges through Europe, I have asked myself which of all the rides is my favourite. It’s a difficult question to answer because all have been fabulous in their own distinct way. Each is unique; the people we ride with, the weather, the scenery, the accommodation, and the general atmosphere all play their part in making each ride special.
There is no doubting, however, that when it comes to scenery our latest adventure on two wheels would be hard to beat. The pure drama of what you see, feel, and hear can‘t really be appreciated either through words or even pictures. There is something about physically witnessing nature in its raw beauty that takes your breath away and quickens the heart rate in a way that no second-hand image can adequately convey. We were excited at the prospect of the Alpine vistas of Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Italy, but still our senses received a feast beyond our expectations. But as ever, the journey is never as smooth as would be hoped.
Day 1
The summer heat was starting to build in southern Germany, and Europe was on the precipice of a heat wave promising glorious weather for our trip. So it was on a Thursday in June that 18 excited adventurers met in Munich on the eve of our latest challenge, to conquer The Alps! The next morning, with deflated spirits, dampened by a deluge that would have had Noah concerned, we climbed onto our bikes and took to the roads. For the whole morning we were buffeted by winds and battered by rain, our mountain view obscured by low-hanging mist and cloud. Wet, cold and a little miserable, we arrived at our lunch stop and queued for hot chocolate and warm pastries, disheartened at the prospect of another 4 hours of cold and wet.
Happily, the rain settled, and a few patches of blue could be seen trying to escape its grey prison. The wind remained, but we battled on, feeling cheered by the sight of the Disney-esque castle Neuschwanstein, not only because it stands as a majestic monument to manmade beauty amid its natural surroundings but also because it meant that we were minutes away from our overnight stop in Füssen. The delicious meal at a Vietnamese restaurant made up for the rigours of the day, and we were once again excited about entering our first Alpine valley.
Day 2
Füssen sits on the German-Austrian border, so it was mere minutes before we had left our German trauma behind us and rolled into a new country. Almost immediately, our rolling green companion (when it could be seen) was replaced by steep-sided mountains, grey and green, as pine trees with firm footholds pushed their branches towards the sky. Wide grassy valleys with long winding cycle paths adjacent to busy roads were soon squeezed and then reopened as we wound our way through this incredible scenery. Sometimes the mountains were huge and grey with little growing on them. At other points, the grass grew partway up the mountainside, being gradually replaced by dense growths of evergreens and tipped with the white remains of snow.
Clear blue rivers meandered in and out of sparkling lakes and reflected the mood of the skies above. We managed to resist the temptation of a cooling dip as we rolled along the bumpy terrain, passing through typical Alpine towns and villages that were dotted along the route. Of course, there were the obligatory ‘refreshment’ stops with Dan doing a wonderful job of finding some of the best ice cream—it was varied and very yummy. From time to time our route was barred by roadworks which meant diversions, sometimes of many miles, and a good deal of unexpected hill climbing. We managed, though, and were buoyed by the thought of the ice cream that awaited our attentions in the next town along our redirected route.
The consensus was that the best accommodation was the one most difficult to reach, in the town of Merano in the Tyrol region of Italy. The town was beautiful, but we knew that the hotel was a little way from the centre and up a hill. What we didn’t realise was that the hill was more like a mountain and we had to turn ourselves into bike-riding mountain goats to reach it. I can’t remember if it was 8 miles or kilometres of uphill riding at an average of, I think, 12% to get there. It felt more like 80 at an average of 20%. Some of the group had been up and down the Stelvio pass earlier in the day, and being faced with this end-of-the-day treat were understandably exhausted. Eventually, we all made it, and was it ever worth it! The rooms were fabulous, the staff incredible, the food plenteous and delicious, and the views incredible. We had caught a festival, and people with lights had climbed adjacent mountains to hold their light and form hearts and crosses; it was wonderful.
Day 3
There are subtle differences in the mountain landscapes of the countries through which we travelled, or maybe it‘s more regional; sometimes the mountains appeared softer with high grassy meadows, others were dark and wooded, whilst in some areas the Mountains felt more imposing and dangerous, imperious jagged outcrops of rock. For me, one of the most noticeable features, and not so subtle, was the apple orchards of Italian South Tyrol that seemed to stretch for miles and miles. There were vineyards, but in comparison they appeared insignificant; apparently this region of the South Tyrol is the European apple capital with 18,400 hectares of orchards, or nearly 26,000 football pitches. That is a lot of apples!
Day 4
On our final day of riding, we descended to the shores of Lake Garda, cycling for many miles along its eastern shoreline. The day was hot, the water sparkled in the sunshine, and many of the group could not resist the too tempting pull calling them into the cool, clear water. Then, back on the bikes with soggy shorts and off to the final destination, Verona.
It proved a little tricky getting into our apartments, and if not for the younger riders (thanks, Jord and Chels), I might still have been trying to work out how to get in. Our end-of-ride meal was eaten next to the Arena with its old-world charm and relaxed atmosphere. It‘s that sort of place that makes you feel that you should just slow down and take life a little more easily. The company was, as ever, delightful, and it was fitting to end the most stunning and beautiful ride in a most beautiful town with wonderful food and, of course, the famous Italian gelato.
So now we plan for next year, and something completely different: an October ride on the east coast of Spain. All are welcome; all you need is a bike and a little training.
You can still support the efforts of all 18 riders on this year’s Spine Ride by making a charitable donation to World Spine Care Europe. Consider selecting the option to make a Monthly contribution and join our growing community of regular donors.
